Fall is officially here! I don’t know if you can tell… but I’m
super excited for fall/winter squashes, as well as the massive variety of
apples that are on hand. Fall is also a great time to sit outside on the porch
in a sweatshirt and enjoy a hearty soup that warms you from the inside out. So,
I’ll explore a semi-spicy curry soup that’s sweetened with apples and fortified
with potatoes.
I’ve been really into curries as of late, and this squash
soup pretty much sums up why I like curry powders. Now I know some of you curry
fanatics will inform me that this is not true curry – I know this! However,
this recipe is probably one of the best I’ve come up with so far. It’s so
exciting to make something this good on the first try!
The idea behind the multiple cooking methods is that the
squash will break up slightly (as will the potato) and create a natural chowder
consistency. This stew is vegan, so obviously there is no dairy. However, I
think it replicates the consistency quite well and is really a great treat to
have your soup thickened naturally with roasted squash.
This recipe is a bit more complicated than my previous ones.
I chose to do this to really hit on some fundamentals of soup making. I’ll
probably be go over some real basic stuff to help you build flavor in your soup
so you can great soup from scratch all the time. I make soup to utilize little
bits and things hanging around in the pantry or fridge. So, understanding these
principles and how great you can make something is important. Pay attention!
Please take note as well that you will be making your own
stock here. Stock/broth at the store adds up in cost and contains a lot of
salt/preservatives – even when you get the organic low-salt variety. I should
say that the stock should be on the fire for about 4 hours to really benefit
from the flavor. Otherwise you’re just going to get a whole bunch of lame stock.
I also chose to cut the vegetables with a very small dice.
If you want to save time cutting, simply toss it in a food processor or grate
it on a box grater on the side with the largest holes. But, given the amount of
time you will have with the stock, I suggest pouring yourself a drink and
refining your cuts.
If done correctly, this soup should have the following
experience: You taste savory with a hint of building spice. Once you think the
spice is going to heat up your palette, it drops off completely (cut by the
sweetness) and leaves you on the edge of your seat for a moment. Then, a slow
heat starts to reside on the tip of your tongue that slowly builds as you eat
more. It’s truly a fantastical roller coaster that will dazzle all your friends.
Ingredients:
1 acorn squash (peeled, seeded, and diced medium)
1 butternut squash (peeled, seeded, and diced medium)
1 apple (any one with a sweet and crisp taste profile)
3 stalks of celery (small dice)
2 medium sized carrots (small dice)
1 large sweet onion (small dice)
2 garlic cloves (sliced thin)
1 orange
10 medium Yukon gold potatoes (skin on, diced medium)
1 tsp thyme or 3 sprigs of fresh time
2 bay leaves
¼ cup cilantro (chiffonade or chopped fine only once)
2 tsp of your favorite curry powder
½ tsp cinnamon
1 Tablespoon champagne vinegar
1 ½ tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp mustard (whole grain preferably)
1 Tablespoon hot sauce (your favorite variety will work
here)
Olive oil
Salt
Pepper
Directions:
1.
Preparation
a.
Peel the squashes and place scraps into a stock
pot.
b.
Keep the seeds separate in a container filled
with water.
i.
Seeds will be easier to separate once wet.
ii.
Set seeds aside on a sheet pan, spread out
evenly.
iii.
Allow seeds to dry while you prep.
iv.
Toast seeds with olive oil, salt, pepper in the
oven at 300° F until super crunchy (about 1 hour).
c.
Remove bottom and tops of celery stalks and add
to stock pot.
d.
Remove outer layer of skin on onions (learn how
here) and add to stock pot.
e.
Peel carrots and cut off ends. Add scraps to
stock pot.
f.
Remove outer skin of garlic and add to stock pot.
g.
Fill stock pot up with water – enough so that
the scraps float up an inch.
h.
Add thyme and bay leaf.
i.
Put the pot on the stove and bring to a full
boil.
i.
Reduce the heat to low and allow to barely
simmer.
ii.
Keep on the stove for 4 hours.
2.
Roast the squash
a.
Acorn squash
i.
Medium dice the acorn squash. and transfer to a
mixing bowl.
ii.
Add oil to the mixing bowl and toss the squash
in it. You’re looking to just coat the squash.
iii.
Continue to toss and pour into the mixing bowl 2
tsp curry powder and juice of a quarter of the orange.
iv.
Add a generous amount of salt and pepper.
1.
I’d say it’s probably going to be around 2 tsp
worth of salt and 1 tsp of pepper. But use your judgment and season to taste.
2.
Seasoning while roasting allows for quicker
moister evaporation and a quicker caramelization process on the plant matter.
v.
Place in oven at 400° F until edges of squash
begin to brown.
b.
Butternut squash
i.
Medium dice the butternut squash and apple.
ii.
Transfer to a mixing bowl.
iii.
Coat with oil as mention previously with acorn
squash.
iv.
Add the cinnamon, paprika, and champagne vinegar.
v.
Season to taste.
vi.
Roast in the oven at 400° F with the acorn
squash until it begins to brown.
3.
Cut your veggies
a.
While all this is going on cut veggies (carrot,
celery, onion, garlic)
b.
They will break down throughout the cooking
process, but it’s important to have them small. You don’t have to be super
precise with your cuts here.
4.
Making the soup
a.
Wait until the squash is done roasting and the
stock is about 3 and a half hours in or so.
b.
Put a large pot on the stove over a medium heat.
c.
Put some oil in the pot, enough to lightly coat
the bottom
d.
Add in your raw onion, celery, carrot, and
garlic.
i.
Keep this on a medium/medium-low heat.
ii.
I add a little salt at this point to add to the
dynamic of the flavor. Salt aids in extracting the flavor from the product
(which is the goal of sweating). I don’t do this when I am sautéing. I always
season that at the end.
iii.
Stir occasionally until onions become translucent.
e.
Add both squashes to the stock pot, straight
from the roasting pan.
i.
Any juices or remaining oil is a plus!
ii.
Make sure you soak roasting pans after the
transfer so they aren’t hard to clean
f.
Allow ingredients to incorporate and heat up.
g.
Add mustard and hot sauce.
h.
Continue to cook ingredients until you start to
see a little browning on the bottom of the pan.
i.
At this point, strain the stock into the soup
pot.
j.
Allow to come up to a simmer
i.
While this is happening, start cutting your
potatoes
ii.
It doesn’t matter if you add them all at once or
simply as you finish cutting them. You want some to break down.
k.
Add potatoes into the simmering soup.
l.
Reduce heat to low (a light simmer)
m.
Cook until potatoes are fork tender.
5.
Finishing the soup
a.
Once the potatoes are ready, add remaining juice
of the orange and cilantro.
b.
Season to taste.
i.
You shouldn’t really have to season much at this
point. The flavor complexity should be showing through by this point.
ii.
Since you seasoned all the ingredients and you
have a really great, flavorful stock – you shouldn’t need the extra few grams
of salt.
6.
Serving the soup
a.
Serve with bread, crostini’s, or naan to dip
with. I’d also recommend ethnic Indian crackers to eat with the soup. You could
also get a little weird with it and use ginger snap cookies.
b.
Match with a fizzy or acidic drink.
i.
The heat may be too much for you to handle.
However, you can make it spicier by adding dried peppers to the stock or when
you roast the squash.
ii.
The bubbles in beer will help lift the heat off
and cool your palate.
iii.
I would match this as well with either some kind
of vodka and ginger beer cocktail. The ginger would both cool and accent the
complex flavors here.
iv.
Steer away from gin in this application, it will
have too much of an aromatic competition.
v.
White wine is a lot cleaner than red, so I think
that the light fruit/acidity that it has to offer would complement this nice. However, that’s not to say that if you have a
lighter tasting red wine that it wouldn’t work.
vi.
Non-alcoholics will enjoy matching this with
ginger beer/ale or a citrus based drink. Think orangeade/limeade base.
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